Inch by inch, the long orange rudder moves toward the water. There’s no wind to speak of, which is rare in early March in the Antilles. But the slight ocean swell is enough to make this a delicate operation for the skipper perched on the stern.
A couple of summers ago, as I paddled my kayak through the narrow passage at the entrance of Fisherman’s Bay on Lopez Island, Wash., I came up on a dated but nicely kept El Toro dinghy skippered by a bear of a man.
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