We call upon our boat’s electrical system to power everything from radar to a 2,000-gph bilge pump to a refrigerator and even an iPad. And, of course, no boat is complete without an array of navigational electronics with high-definition screens and the latest in communication devices.
Is your electrical system up to the task of feeding all of your boat’s electronic components and electric accessories? Here’s a do-it-yourself procedure from Ed Sherman of the American Boat and Yacht Council that’ll help you with that question.
It’s time for new batteries, but you’re not sure if you should go with flooded-cell, gel or AGM (absorbed glass mat). Each type has pros and cons.
The cruiser had twin 5.7-liter engines, and the Connecticut boat owner had gotten friends to help him winterize it. The men did a lot of things right, says marine mechanic Erik Klockars, but they made a catastrophic error.
They used plenty of antifreeze, but they didn’t realize that the thermostats in the raw water-cooled engines were preventing the circulation of the antifreeze through the blocks and heads. Water sat in the blocks during the winter and froze. When the owner fired up the boat for a prospective buyer in the spring, water spilled out of 6-inch cracks in the engine blocks, says Klockars, who was involved as a surveyor.
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