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Ready to Spring

Here’s how to prep your boat for the new season.
To prevent leaks, the drain plug should have Teflon tape on the threads and be properly tightened.

To prevent leaks, the drain plug should have Teflon tape on the threads and be properly tightened.

As the days get longer and the grass gets greener, the time to properly prepare your boat for the coming season has arrived. Commonly referred to as spring commissioning, the process is not just vital for a long and successful boating season, it’s also important for the overall lifespan of your boat and your own safety.

A spring commissioning to-do list is dependent on what you did to winterize your boat, the type of boat, and her age. As seasoned skippers know, boats suffer far more equipment failures the less you use them. So, in an effort to fully maximize the boating season after a long winter on the hard, we’re going to take a look at the critical spring commissioning tasks.

HULL MAINTENANCE

Proper maintenance of the hull is likely one of the first items you think about when preparing your boat for the season. Fortunately, it is also the one that pays the most noticeable dividends once completed, as nothing says your boat is ready to go in the water like waxed gelcoat and fresh bottom paint. Here are some of the tasks that belong on your list.

Bottom Painting: Always complete a light sanding on your hull before applying the paint. If you do it every spring, one coat should suffice. With proper preparation, you’ll avoid heavy paint buildup and flaking problems.

Be sure to replace zincs if they are close to 50 percent gone.

Be sure to replace zincs if they are close to 50 percent gone.

Waxing: Stay away from any carnauba-based waxes (also known as Brazil or palm wax) as they only last 2 to 3 months. Instead, use a synthetic-based wax product, which will last the entire season and prevent gelcoat oxidations and hull staining. Be aware that most 2-in-1 cleaners/waxers are carnauba-based, so pick your product wisely.

Drain Plug: The drain plug, known as a garber plug to sailors, is one of the fastest ways to sink your boat if you forget to plug it in before launching. Be sure to use a teflon tape around the threads and properly tighten the plug when reinstalling to prevent nuisance leaks.

Zincs: While the lifespan of your zincs may vary greatly depending on where and how you store your boat, you should replace them once they are close to 50 percent gone. Failure to do so in a timely fashion can cause extensive and expensive damage to the underwater metals of your boat. If you’re unsure if a zinc should be replaced, always err on the side of replacement.

Bilge: There are multiple reasons to take the time to thoroughly clean your bilge. Debris in the bilge can work into the strainer basket, fouling bilge pump impellers and preventing float switches from closing, thus draining batteries. A clean and dry bilge will also allow you to easily identify and diagnose any leaks. In addition, a clean bilge can really make the boat smell better.

PROPULSION SYSTEMS

A faulty propulsion system not only comes with a large repair bill, but also weeks of missed fun on the water. Spring commissioning for propulsion is largely focused on visual inspection, as most maintenance should be completed during the winterizing process. In addition to visual inspection, boat owners should follow the manufacturer’s maintenance schedule to ensure optimal operation.

Address corrosion issues before you dunk the boat in the spring.

Address corrosion issues before you dunk the boat in the spring.

Visual Inspection: To complete the visual inspection, look at the engine for leaks, cracked or rotted hose, rusty hose clamps, electrical corrosion on the engine harness, and worn or loose engine belts. Verify the oil and oil filter were changed during winterizing, and check condition and level of all motor fluids. Inspect all control cables and ensure connection points are properly secured, operate smoothly, and do not show signs of bulging or rust on the outside casing.

Inboard Engines: If your boat has an inboard, open the raw-water seacock prior to launching, ensure the intake strainer is clear of debris and confirm the lid is properly tightened. Check for deterioration or cracking on any rubber parts responsible for keeping the water out of the boat (i.e.: dripless cutlass bearings saildrive bellows, etc.). Finally, verify the engine room blower is operating properly and that the duct hose is properly connected to the vent fittings and not torn.

Outboard Motors: Pay particular attention to visible corrosion and oil leaks on your trim/tilt assembly, which are susceptible to failure and next to impossible to service in the water. And inspect the priming bulb, an item that is easy to overlook and over time becomes more prone to failure.

TEST RUN

After your visual inspection, always run the engine before putting the boat in the water. This process varies based on the style of propulsion, but typically involves using a garden hose to supply water to the cooling impeller. Note: Bypassing the impeller during this process will lead to certain impeller failure. While running the motor, be sure to check the gauge functionality and throttle response. During the test run of a gasoline engine, be aware that the engine may produce excessive smoke as it burns off the fogging oil used in the winterizing process. While this is normal, this smoke does have the potential to foul your spark plugs. If this is the case, you should consider changing your spark plugs once this process is complete.

ELECTRICAL

We all know that water and electricity don’t play nicely. You must ensure you have a safe and properly functioning electrical system and this process also starts with a visual inspection.

Visual Inspection, Reconnection & Test: Begin by making sure your batteries are properly installed and at full charge. Any flooded lead acid battery cells should be topped off with distilled water before charging. While installing, check the battery cable lug connections for corrosion and ensure they’re securely crimped. Thoroughly inspect your DC distribution, electrical wiring and switch panel to verify there is no evidence of burnt or corroded connections.

Test all electrical equipment on board. Ensure safety items such as navigation lights, horn, wipers and VHF are all properly functioning. Verify all additional electronics turn on and operate correctly, and check for any possible error messages. Test bilge pumps in both manual mode and automatic by lifting float switches. Check shore power plugs and outlets for surface corrosion and burnt plug connections.

PLUMBING SYSTEMS

Your plumbing system is the most at risk during the winter months. The process to get your plumbing system back into working order is as follows:

Water System Commissioning: It is a good practice to flush your water tanks and freshwater lines to clear the non-toxic propylene glycol antifreeze that was used to protect against freezing. To do this, open all faucets and showers and run the water until the pink discoloration disappears. If you see an abnormal amount of foaming around the drain after the discoloration disappears, it’s a sign that there is still antifreeze in the system. You should taste the water to ensure that all remaining antifreeze is removed from the system.

Reconnect your hot-water heater if it was bypassed for winterization. Close any drain valve on your hot-water heater and make sure AC power has not been locked out or disconnected. Replace any water filters that may be present on the boat and ensure strainers are cleaned. Once the water system is re-pressurized, be sure to check for leaks.

Thru-Hulls and Seacocks: Inspect all thru-hull fittings for corrosion or signs of leaks. Test all seacocks and valves by opening and closing and inspect all hose clamps for corrosion and signs of failure. Check hoses for cracking, deterioration and frost damage.

Sanitation System: Inspect holding tank(s) for cracks or damage. Verify all valves are functional and that heads drain and flush.

SAFETY EQUIPMENT

Although not officially a part of any “professional” spring commissioning, check all documentation and safety equipment to make sure you are current and Coast Guard compliant

Items to Check: Make sure that life jackets, fenders, handheld radios, anchors and dock lines that were removed for the winter are returned to the boat. Check that smoke alarms and CO detectors have working batteries. Verify active membership with marine assistance providers (Seatow, TowboatUS, etc).

MAXIMIZE SAFETY

As the boating season approaches, investing time, money and effort to ensure that your boat is ready for the season is critical. The majority of issues that will leave you high and dry during the season are preventable through good maintenance and inspection. A proper spring commissioning will maximize your time on the water and help keep you and your family safe. 

Mike Garretson owns Sea & Land Yacht Works in Wakefield, Rhode Island. This article was originally published in the April 2024 issue.

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